In dermatology clinics, the question raised most often is not "what should I add" but "can I use less".

The doctors we spoke to identify stacked active ingredients as the commonest source of irritation. Actives in different products can work against each other, and using them together tends to damage the skin barrier.

Over-cleansing is more common than under-cleansing

The second step most often removed is cleansing. Doctors say deep cleansing more than twice a day, combined with scrubs or clay masks, exceeds what most skin tolerates.

More people come in from washing too much than from not washing enough.— A dermatologist we interviewed

What is actually worth keeping

Only three things were unanimously kept: gentle cleansing, basic moisturising and daily sun protection. Of these, actual sunscreen use is consistently lower than people believe their own use to be.

A dermatology consultation.
A dermatology consultation.
  • Remove: several active products layered together
  • Remove: over-cleansing and frequent exfoliation
  • Remove: switching products rapidly
  • Keep: gentle cleansing, moisturiser, sunscreen

This summarises general advice from the doctors interviewed and does not replace a consultation. Persistent skin problems should be seen by a clinician.