The last shift at the late-night canteen: at two in the morning, who are they cooking for?

At half past midnight there are four tables occupied. By two, there are more.

The owner says late customers follow a pattern. Around midnight it is young people coming out of somewhere. Between half one and half two it is drivers and security staff changing shift. After three it is market traders about to start work.

The time it takes to make a bowl of noodles

The kitchen is two people: one cooking noodles, one on garnish and the till. Service holds steady at about four minutes — which matters at this hour, because many customers are timing it against a shift change.

People who come at this hour are in a hurry. Cook slowly and they will not come back.— The owner

• Hours: 6pm to 4am
• Peaks: midnight, 1.30–2.30, after 3am
• Customers: more than half work night shifts
• Service: steady at around 4 minutes

The owner refuses to charge more after midnight. "People out eating in the middle of the night are mostly not out for pleasure."

At ten past four the last customer leaves. The two of them start clearing; the kitchen has to be done by six, because the doors open again at eight for the morning trade.